Gravity seems to be working as expected in my case but you may decide to attach a magnet to the side of the box that touches the Gaggia for a more secure mount. Im using a calibrated FLUKE 51II digital thermometer and a K-type thermocouple to measure temp. I did that exercise before installing the PID, behavior should be identical as that time. We have an earth leakage wiring system in our house, but in many countries, these are not standard. I have couple of concerns with this setup and would like to kindly ask for your opinion: 1. i ordered K type and PT100 both for M4. Connect one meter probe to ground (the GC chassis should always be grounded, otherwise connect to the green wire coming from the power socket at the back). After completing the PID installation, of the standard Rex c-100 version, I ran the PID in autotune mode. Are you sure you want to create this branch? That is confusing. robert kujawa 348 subscribers Subscribe 85K views 1 year ago In this video I'll install a PID unit on my. How to install a PID on a Gaggia Classic Pro - DIY, cheap and good looking! Thanks. Hey Chris, You will probably want to drill pilot holes as well to prevent cracking the plastic. Once the machine has been set to 9 bars of pressure (see bottom of article), the next big improvement is the addition of a PID. Always double-check your specific models wiring terminal layout and numbering scheme. I was initially concerned about my wiring (and my GFI) but its reassuring to hear you have the same side effects. About 60cm of 1mm2 (17AWG) cable to deliver power from the Gaggia to the PID 3. I am only using the Rex temporarily while working on a project with a Raspberry Pi (and the cost of the Rex was only a couple dollars when ordering the SSR), otherwise I would reprint the entire enclosure with the hooks built in. Shall I change the P,I and D parameters manually and what is your suggestion to start with? There are no holes in the printed parts for the wiring between the PID and espresso machine, you'll need to decide where you want these holes and drill them yourself. This guide should generally also apply to the 2013 GC, but you must assume that any of the switch wiring that I describe will be different for your model year. Terrific write-up thank you for posting it! This is probably the most difficult part of the installation. Is it necessary to use a heat sink with the SSR installation? Does this happen even if you let the machine sit in steam mode and dont open the steam valve?. I found this M8 female to M4 male reducer: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284317077676. Opciones de compra y productos Add-on . I have a different/better single boiler PID machine I will use to pull shots. When the PID signals the SSR, as indicated by the brew ready light and the output led on the PID, the pressure coming out of the pump decreases, and then increases again after the PID out to the SSR turns off. I hesitate to identify wires by their color, as the wire colors in the Gaggia seem to vary from year to year and from region to region. I have a similar model, C100-Fk02-V*AN. PID KIT for Gaggia Classic Pro & Classic & Home, Pre-Infusion - KIT-GGP (Red) PID KIT for Gaggia Classic Pro & Classic & Home, Pre-Infusion - KIT-GGP (Red) $319.00 RRP $362.00 SAVE $43.00 (12%) Location Availability Online: In Stock Sydney: In Stock Newcastle: No stock Hobart: No stock Add to Cart Wishlist Calculate Shipping Calculate gaggia classic pro pid installation guideAUBER PID for gaggia classic proThis is a walkthrough / guide on installing an Auber pid on the gaggia classic pro. PID, Auto Shot Timer Add to Watch list. TopBox with logo : Less than ten left Wear a glove when reaching in from below, otherwise bloodletting is likely. Plug in a mains-rated cable connected to a piggyback spade connector, and then plug the original switched mains cable into the piggyback. Specifications : The PID unit did not turn on using the same terminal of your machine. Hi Miguel. 2. If the PID stays on when wired directly to mains power, you will need to figure out which power wire to tap into. 3-Connect the other cable to the terminal on the on off switch, which is on top of or below the Live cable. Heat the shrink tubing. Please Close the PID enclosure, and attach it to the side of the Classic. Your email address will not be published. But Ive downloaded the wiring diagram for my machine. Its getting very hot indeed so turned it off. Approach 1: Follow my writeup, adapting it to your models peculiarities, and then set the PID temperature to your preferred steam temperature. Just installed the PID kit from shades of coffee, i configured it to 93c but when i turn the brew switch on, the temp doesnt stay at the +-1 tolerance. I have not changed any of the P, I or D settings on my controller. Because there is very little information on how to install a PID on the latest generation of the New Classic (2018 and newer, also called the Gaggia Classic Pro in North America), here are instructions on to do this. Regarding the M4 screw/ thermocouple, is it possible to amend the picture? Pull the cover assembly off by pulling upwards, and disconnect the ground cables. Ive attached an album with my wiring below; Ive literally had an engineer look at it and The Gaggia is 100% at its original state except for the power taps on the neutral at the plug, the live on the brew switch, and the thermocouple to SSR wiring: https://imgur.com/a/rc4xtfz. Hi David. I recently installed the PID kit mentioned above however, the water coming out of my group head is substantially lower than my SV (currently set at 200F, reading 165-170F at the group head). Hello, there is another model without SSR built in with name 7100 instead of 7200. ESP32-WROOM32 - ESP32DEVKIT1; 40 A SSR . Is there an easy way to set a brewing and steam temp? My only concern is that Mr Shades has two types of SSR units 40AA and 40DA. This wont be enough for the boiler heating element. I have a question on the pid, it is normal for the brew light to blink (off and) while it stabilizes to the target temperature. You said here that the to get an M3 thread for the boiler. the PWM needs a new wire to the where the pump wire was disconnected. Since I cant control that, if you want to use it, you will have to parse the data: each line, after the headings, should start with the PID parameter (P, I, D) followed by the reaction of the controller. Hi Peter. As you'll see, it isn't that complicated and really takes the humble Classic to a higher level!00:24 - Introduction02:10 - A list of parts05:58 - What NOT to do first06:50 - Disassembling the machine09:27 - Installing the temperature sensor10:55 - Making connections15:10 - Installing the solid state relay18:44 - Tidying up the cables20:01 - Connecting the PID22:45 - Cost summary24:15 - Autotuning24:51 - Was it worth it?In contrast to the most popular solutions in the market, my PID will sit at the back of the machine and be no bigger than the unit itself. AC CIRCUITS ARE DANGEROUS AND MISTAKES CAN CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH. Hey Chris, Hi all, I recently bought a Gaggia Milady secondhand. If you are in the U.S. then mains voltage is 120V, which will not kill you (unless you have a pacemaker or are standing in a bathtub) but can give you a decent shock. It looks like your GC is in steam mode. I dont have a measuring device but the change in pressure is visually noticeable when running blank shots, and the pitch of the pump changes significantly. My Gaggia Classic Pro Controller (PID, flow control, brew profiles, and more!) This does mean that you can only fill the water tank by pulling it out. I can only find vids and instruction for the pro (does anyone have links for the older version?) Your email address will not be published. Great guide. M2x8mm screws of your choise (I used these: Rare earth magnets (optional), attached to the back of the SSR to fasten it to the inside of the espresso machine. Gaggia Classic & Classic Pro scales housing (BOM and models) Base Functionality Housings. It really pays off to assume nothing, and test everything. sign in Tighten one end of your connector down to one of the solid state relays AC (~) terminals and plug the other end into one of the disconnected thermostat wires. I appreciate the write up, and I believe it will help people doing this upgrade. Thread the thermocouple wire through to the back of the machine, and out the same slot as was used for the other wires. If you used piggyback connectors, it should be a quick job to move the right one over to the correct switch terminal. Shall I connect it to terminal 5 or 2 of the on-off switch? Steam will still be controlled by the steam thermostat. I will monitor it over the next few days, but if the coffee takes good, and the only thing I notice is the warmer cup tray, Ill be fine with that, better in fact! Awesome guide! That is indeed not normal. Gaggiuino started as an idea to improve an already capable coffee machine while keeping the machine appearance and button functionality as close as possible to the original. I dont own a multimeter. Ive tried connecting these in various combinations but the PV readout is 3 or 4. Always work with the Classic unplugged. I have checked the calibration of the PID sensor using boiling water in a kettle and it is fine. If so, any idea how it can be achieved? shades uses 2 connecting one ssr thru the other for steam. The PID has been setup with values for Kp, Ki and Kd that work adequately but you may want to adjust them to suit your needs. however the one SSR is nice and the modification gives upgraded steam with the solder mod. The GC comes from the factory with a simple thermostat that turns on at a certain pre-set temperature, and turns off at another pre-set temperature. From: 100,00 . Ive been hearing the solenoid valve click several times while on steam mode as well, and the group head releasing steam on occasions, which also make me worry in terms of the wiring, or the parts just need replacement. Be careful, the edges of the hole in the chassis are very sharp. Most thermocouple calibration articles that I have read use ice water to calibrate to zero degrees C because the boiling point of water varies with altitude. Shades and Auber Instruments. Ill verify the cable, its one of the cables that came with the machine, so it could likely be the strands have slowly burned with time and just needs cutting and re-crimping, as you mention. New - Gaggia Classic Pro/2019 PID kit - 1/32DIN single display $140.81 Shades of Coffee Original - Gaggia Classic PID kit - 1/32DIN single display $140.81 Shades of Coffee TopBox PID Mounting System $36.17 Shades of Coffee Gaggia Classic - Flow Control Dimmer kit $27.13 sign up ABOUT US CONTACT US DELIVERY TERMS YOUR PRIVACY REFUND POLICY FAQs I love the Lego enclosure idea. If youre following a recipe that calls for a specific water temperature, then it would be easier to do this with an offset at the PID. I checked that the PID was able to correctly read a temperature from the thermocouple, and turn on and off the solid state relay depending on the temperature reading. It should work as a replacement for the C-100 and SSR, but because the SSR is built into the PID, so your wiring will be a bit different. Thanks! Hi Dennis. The best part is I am only in about $40 on my kit compared to around $150 for the pre made kits. Hey Chris, Im wanting to put the pid into an extended 3d printed driptray. The two mains wires connect to terminals 1 and 2 (starting counter-clockwise from top-left). The PID is really converting the mains voltage to 12VDC both for its internal operation and to drive the SSR, so the PIDs draw is quite small. The PID I ordered came as a package with a solid state relay and a thermocouple, but that thermocouple had too big a diameter to with the Gaggia. Thanks. Hi Brian. And once you start considering adding in a power supply, you might as well go for a PID. The SSR is only rated for 5 amps. If the brand or source is questionable, I would recommend derating the current by a factor of 2 or 3 and going for a model rated for 25-40A just to be safe. The PID values are not saved if you change them through the menu so if you find a tuning you like and want to change the defaults, you'll need to do that in the code and then re-upload it to the device. Best tip from Chris is to remove the bottom screws and using piggyback spades. I think this is why using a separate SSR and controller is the only way to go. The only other thing I can think of is the relay. K type thermocouple, 0-500, 2m cable (6 feet). The grommet is used where the wires go through the chassis. In the text it says M4, but on the picture, it highlights to use the M3. It was impossible to see without getting down into the wire harness. Did you try it? The REX-C100 should work out of the box, set for heating mode, with alarms disabled, and units set to Celsius. I placed the SSR toward the left side of the back panel if facing the front of the machine. Obviously the actual water temp will be different, but I can use this range to try and get a consistent temp when I pull a shot. Have you written an article regarding installing a Gaggiuino mod? to use Codespaces. Cross referencing with the with the manual confirmed that the stickers had been reversed. This would also allow you to switch to PID-controlled brew mode simply by lowering the PID temperature. The fun of the PID is not just the great stability, but the ability to fine tune the brew temperature to your taste! For the wiring inside the PID I just used 32AWG single strand hookup wire and for any wiring inside the Gaggia I used silicone insulated wire (26AWG for the wiring from PID to SSR, 12AWG to extend the thermoswitch leads to the SSR as referenced in the Installation Steps below). That being said, the original brew thermostat is supposed to be 107C, so could perhaps reach even higher temperatures? I would be glad if you have any recommendations. Thank you very much if you find the time to answer me . Run this wire along the rest of the existing cables and out the back of the Classic, through one of the vent slots. The sensor has three wires: 1 x red and 2 x white. Even though the wires are insulated, as someone posted earlier, that metal is sharp and the vibration from the machine may eventually cause the insulation to fail and then your whole machine is a conductor. Youre probably fine with either one. Your machine would bottom out at 122C with the offset before power cycling again, which sounds more in line with much better steaming pressure. The 103 is not a true 103, that is what is getting measured in the boiler wall, and there is also a temperature drop off between the boiler and the portafilter, so your final espresso temperature will be lower. This guide explains this well, and also explains what to do if your home wiring is not correct: https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/195229/in-a-light-switch-how-can-i-tell-if-the-black-wire-is-really-hot-and-the-white. When I put everything back together, my machine started shorting out and tripping the circuit breaker on . If you use anything different you'll need to make adjustments to the 3D printed parts. I found that carefully pushing the boiler up gives better access to the thermostat, either from above, or by reaching up from below. Coffee Sensor Gaggia Classic or Pro Tray and grids. This is not a difficult mod. Ive noticed that the PIDs output1 LED isnt illuminated after it climbs above my set temperature (103) but the boiler is getting heated up regardless. The LED on the SSR is functioning but no current can be seen. 24,00 . However, when I flip the gaggia power switch to off, the PID LCD screen remains illuminated. If you really want these features, its probably time to think about upgrading your machine. Following your idea, I have ordered the same type of REX-C100FK02-V*EN and I combined with PT100 (RTD) sensor. Mounting Dimension: DIN: 1/16 (48mmX48mmX80mm) Hi Nish. Water tank lid custom made for Gaggia Classic pre 2018 model stainless steel. Please be sensible and install a grommet anyway! So this suggests that the machine is getting much hotter and I reduced the the set point to 95deg from your recommendation of 103degC. Or buy a machine with a built-in PID. Net Weight: about 150g There is no 12v anywhere in the GCP, its all mains power inside. 102 is way too low, you wont get useful steaming at that low a temperature. The idea of the chassis becoming live doesnt bear thinking about. PID example MAX31865 driver is finished. Pantechnicon Wood kit installed on . I have found this PID kit here on Ali express and I think its the same one you fitted can you please tell me if this one is good to go, they got a 3 piece option and a 4 piece option so dont know which, I think the 4 piece option is because it includes a heat sink that you dont mention, so I assume I wont be needing it, can you please advise. I decided to go the do-it-yourself route, ordering the parts separately, at a fraction of the cost of the kits. Thanks for the info, D. Your experience further goes to show that there is no standardized wire color coding in the GCP, even though black is usually hot and white is neutral. I have found the exact PID unit which Mr Shades is using and purchased it beside the Rex C100 kit you mentioned above: Thank you. Hi Brian. Ill be using a xmt7100 (modified) for two SRRs and also tweaked for 12v out for led mod any help would be appreciated. Modification gives upgraded steam with the SSR toward the left side of the sit... 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I put everything back together, my machine started shorting out and tripping the circuit breaker on doing this.! My machine started shorting out and tripping the circuit breaker on looks like your GC in. Vids and instruction for the boiler wiring ( and my GFI ) but its to!